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By Leah LaRocco

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Hiking

Can You Hear Me Now? Disconnecting Phones, Hiking Stone Door, & Getting Real For A Sec

October 26, 2015 by Leah Leave a Comment

“I really think that being in nature is a basic human need that we have.  It gives us perspective because, when you walk into the woods, or walk through the desert or sit by a river, you realize that you’re only one thing in the great order of things….I know for certain that I myself get incredibly bound up in very minor, ridiculous, temporary conundrums.  And obviously there’s nothing wrong with that. I think we have to get bound up in those things….But if you only live in that realm, you are missing out on something that’s essential and illuminating.”  
Cheryl Strayed in a recent LA Times article discussing her new book Brave Enough

One thing in the great order of things…

I get really frustrated when I sit in front of the TV.  I grew up in a home without cable and never had it myself until I got married and it was part of the binding contract that came with my husband.  For him, watching TV is a way to unwind after the daily labor of his very physical job.  But for me, the more I watch TV, the more I hate it.  Don’t get me wrong, I love BBC shows and could sit for days on end engrossed in proper murder mysteries, period dramas, and reruns of QI…but in the end, the TV is a killer of creativity, a way to ignore the world around us, and a silencer of communication with other human beings.  If we didn’t have one in our house, I wouldn’t miss it (well, except maybe for movies).  In fact, more and more I am noticing the dearth of conversation created by the screens in our home.  Our phones get more face time with us than we do with ourselves sometimes.  I’ve heard of people setting limits on screen time in their homes and I think it’s wise to be aware of the way technology is changing the way we live and interact with each other.  I am a little disgusted with myself over the internal panic that happens when I realize I’ve left my phone at home on a grocery run.  There is a false sense of connectedness that comes with a cell phone.  The problem is that no matter how much you text someone, if you aren’t having meaningful conversation with that person at some point, you are living in a superficial relationship devoid of actual connection with that individual.

This past weekend, we headed out into nature again in another godforsaken part of TN, and it was a relief to put my phone in airplane mode when we realized we had no service.  This, of course, isn’t awesome when you’re trying to get in touch with someone, or need GPS, or have an emergency in the woods…but it is nice to not even have the option of distraction by technology when you’re meant to be appreciating the vastness of the natural world around you.  Sitting around a campfire is much more rewarding when you are actually talking to the people you’re with as opposed to distractedly half-listening to them while looking at the latest Facebook posts.  There was a sense of reluctant sadness when we finally reached the point of having service and the texts, emails, and notifications started rolling in.  I think that lately, being immersed in nature on these weekend jaunts has been a way to reconnect with the neglected parts of myself that have become hidden in daily life, the house work, the job, marriage, the striving that we constantly have to deal with.  
 Our home away from home
When it’s you, the trees, and the sound of your own footsteps, things occasionally loom into perspective.  I enjoy going into the woods alone, but I really love when Rob comes along too because there’s the sense of accomplishing something together, working toward an end goal and making discoveries along the way.  This weekend, my body was humbled by the trails at the Stone Door in South Cumberland State Park.  We ended up making a 12ish mile loop by taking the Stone Door trail to Big Creek Gulf Trail to Ranger Creek Falls, then on to Greeter Falls, and returning via the Big Creek Rim trail.  The gulf trail was peppered with moments of astounding beauty – dry river beds strewn with mossy boulders, waterfalls, brilliant colors that stood out in the damp weather, and ascents that set the heart pounding and the legs on fire.
 Entrance to the Stone Door
The Stone Door – a passageway used by the Native Americans
 Ranger Creek Falls
 Greeter Falls Trail
 Upper Greeter Falls

This is probably the most challenging trail we’ve done in terms of inclines, even compared to those in Colorado.  The last three miles on the way back, the muscles behind my left knee were in a lot of pain and I’m still not sure what I did to it because I was completely fine the next morning, but seriously, I wanted to sit on a log in the woods and cry for a minute.  It also rained for a good two miles, but in spite of the knee pain and ill timed precipitation, I kept looking up through the reds and oranges of fall and feeling so utterly blessed to be tiny ants marching along in the forest.
Pippin, the ranger station cat, leads a life of badassness and feline adventure in the wilds of Tennessee.
 Myrle and Maddox enjoy the comforts of our down sleeping bags, preferring that we have the adventures and they have the naps.
A couple of things to note about hiking and camping because my dad accused me of making it all sound so rosy, so I’m going to get real at the end of this blog after you’ve seen all the pretty pictures that make it worth the journey…
  • Sometimes a trail is really hard and you’re in the middle of it and want to die.  Or feel like you’re going to die.  Because you’re breathing so heavily on an ascent and then you try to take a drink of water and realize you can’t breathe and drink water at the same time, so you have to make up for that after a sip and you end up sounding like you’re being strangled, but really you’re just trying to not die.  
  • Sometimes you hear a trail is nice and then you go hike it and it’s flat and boring, and you realize you just wasted 6 miles of your life to walk a flat, boring trail with no views.
  • Sometimes you get blisters or your feet really, really hurt after you’ve walked a lot of miles and you want to throw your hiking shoes over a cliff, like Reese Witherspoon in Wild, but then you realize you need those shoes to finish the 5 miles you have left.
  • People are smelly.  YOU are smelly.  After you hike and sweat and sleep in a tent for a few nights and go to the bathroom in the woods for days on end, you smell like a garbage dumpster and look like one too.  I take wet wipes and hand sanitizer and a big headband for my gross, frizzy hair, but there’s only so much one can do when a shower isn’t available.  This is the reality of the human condition.  We are disgusting.
  • Wildlife can scare you sometimes, whether it be a bear, snake, moose, deer, chipmunk, spider, or leaf you thought was a giant bug.  We’ve seen lots of wildlife on our hikes this year.  Some of it scared the crap out of us and some of it was totally awesome (or both).  Be wise, carry bear spray in appropriate situations, realize you’re on their turf now, and deal with that in the most environmentally friendly way possible. 
  • Injuries can happen, which sucks.  The best thing to do is have a first aid kit and to assess the situation with wisdom and smarts.  Every root, stump, rock, and slippery leaf poses the risk of a fall, so step carefully.  Remember that states like New Hampshire, Colorado, and Utah now have hiker cards you can purchase in case you need to be rescued.  These cards will keep you from incurring most of the financially crippling costs that are associated with search and rescue operations.

In my opinion, the benefits of being in nature outweigh these things.  There is just too much beauty out there to be chased after, so yeah, it’s rosy in some ways, and totally nasty in other ways…a lot like life.

Filed Under: Hiking, Tennessee Tagged With: hiking, Tennessee, Travel

Woods & Wisdom

October 23, 2015 by Leah Leave a Comment

Today I am relishing the fact that my neighbors seem to be out of town.  At approximately 9:52 every morning, a horde of screaming children takes to their backyard and makes the amount of noise a small troop of Vikings would make on an impromptu pillage.  They do this until dinner time.  It also sounds like ducks, chickens, and other random sorts of poultry are being tortured or chased or strung up in trees.  I don’t know.  Sometimes I’m on the phone with a coworker and they’re like, “What’s that weird noise I’m hearing?”  And I nervously laugh and think, “Oh nothing, it’s just a pack of wild, screaming children who’ve been left outside unattended, you know, like in Lord of the Flies.” 

It’s a really stunning autumn day here.  The weather is low 70s, sunny, with early leaves blowing lazily through the air.  Lacy, our old lady dog, was struck prone by a sunbeam and is laying in the grass in such a way that I occasionally feel the need to check and make sure she’s still breathing.

This has been an interesting week.  Last weekend we spent a day with always-missed and much loved friends, then went to Rock Island State Park which was in the middle of freaking nowhere, Tennessee.  The trails were short, but the waterfalls were kind of mind blowing considering the largest one was actually an accident when TVA created the dam.  Talk about one heck of a pretty accident!

Then I went to hear Elizabeth Gilbert speak (with Ann Patchett), following a particularly uninspiring few days, and it felt like I’d struck a vein of joy.  The past couple of days I’ve been trying to sit on my little raft and ride the wake of inspiration that follows her wherever she goes.  Some of the few things that stood out amongst the deluge of wisdom:

  • She loves beautiful shoes so much that she will purchase a pair even if only one of the shoes actually fits the way it’s supposed to.  This is encouraging because even an amazing, famous author like her can be taken down a notch by a pair of Dior shoes.  
  • We must become scientists of our own experience.
  • Assume that everyone you encounter has something fascinating in them.
  • Unused virtue/love/creativity is not benign.
  • Check in with the richer, more interesting part of yourself.  Your soul versus your ego.
  • You only have to be 1% more curious than afraid to do the things you want to do.  This one is huge for me.  New goal: live a life of curiosity and wonder.
  • You can’t push darkness out, you can only grow light.
  • There is honor in supporting yourself while you honor your work.  You can still put the work first while you have a job and a financial support beneath you.  I really loved this advice, particularly living in Nashville, because there is this stigma here that unless you are really suffering for your art/musicianship/whatever, then you are not a serious artist/musician/whatsit.  She advised to never go into debt because of your art, but to make your art alongside your job, honoring the creative process and prioritizing it while still being a responsible individual.
  • Once you’re wealthy, you just don’t have to give a sh*t about what other people think.  She openly talks about the success of Eat, Pray, Love and how it’s given her the ability to do whatever the F she wants without caring what anyone else thinks.  There must be so much freedom in that.  New goal: stop caring so much about what other people think.
  • One of her goals in life is to walk for a year.  Am contemplating calling her up to see if she’d ever feel like hiking the Appalachian Trail together just for kicks.

This weekend we head up to Stone Door on the South Cumberland Plateau with some friends for more camping, hiking, and soul refreshment.  Hoping the weather holds!

Filed Under: Hiking, Tennessee, Travel Tagged With: Elizabeth Gilbert, hiking, Rock Island State Park, Tennessee, Travel

Miles On The Trail: Leaving The Everyday Behind

October 12, 2015 by Leah Leave a Comment

Sometimes you reach a point in life where you realize something is
missing or feels woefully unfulfilled and it causes you to search for
joy in places unexplored.  Some things have changed for me over the past six months that have left me trying to figure out what I love, what is truly important in life, how life is meant to be experienced, what can I do to live a life without regrets, how can I seize and fully embrace moments in the short time I have on this planet…deep stuff like that.

Since this is my 100th blog post, I want to talk about something near and dear to my heart – hiking.  

Earlier this year I stumbled upon a podcast called Sounds of the Trail, which has been a source of long-missing inspiration and happiness for me.  When I was a kid, my parents often vacationed in Vermont because we had a little camper we stored up there.

How I started hiking…
 The infamous Skamper…our home away from home for many years.  
Now most commonly referred to as “glamping”

These trips were sometimes internally frustrating for me because I saw other kids jetting off to Disney World or traveling to Europe with their families and I often thought, “Why the heck do I get stuck with old Vermont?”  Dad would drive maddeningly slow down these out of the way dirt roads and go like 15 miles an hour so we could look at the scenery and it nearly made me lose my mind at times.

 The famous bridge off River Road in Arlington, VT

But the most fun thing we did on these trips was exploring the woods.  We would go hiking at places like White Rocks, Merck Forest, and Hapgood Pond.

There were lots of little trails in the campground where we stayed and I would go off on my own and just walk through the woods or explore down by the Battenkill River.

These outdoor experiences embedded themselves in me and caused me to seek out trails in college down by the Ocoee River.  When I moved to Franklin, there wasn’t much hiking in the near vicinity, and I would occasionally go to Edwin Warner Park, but that was about the extent of it.  Then last year we went camping with some friends and hiked the Fiery Gizzard trail up to Raven Point in South Cumberland State Park and I got hooked again.

 Fiery Gizzard trail

Then I found Sounds of the Trail.

I hope I get to write more about this podcast because I want everyone I know who loves the outdoors to hear about it.  It’s a podcast about hiking that follows the path of one woman as she is hiking the Appalachian Trail and another woman (and eventually a guy) who are currently hiking the Pacific Crest Trail.  They interview hikers along the way, chronicle their own journeys, and encourage people like little old you and me to get out there and hike.  The producer, whose trail name is Gizmo, hiked the PCT last year and also talks about her own experiences.  The episodes are utterly inspiring and make you feel like you’re sitting around a campfire with old friends, talking about adventures. 

So far this year, following our epic trip to Colorado in July…

 Along the trail to Lake Haiyaha in RMNP
 Black bear we ran into on the way to Cub Lake in RMNP

…I’ve hiked nearly a hundred miles on short and long trails within two hours of where we live.  I realize there are some people that literally hike this type of mileage in four days on the AT, but for me whose back is twisted by scoliosis, who has gained some 30s-metabolism-betraying-me weight and feels anything but athletic, it’s the biggest personal accomplishment I can speak of that’s happened in a long time.  The most I’ve done in one day has been 13 miles, and Rob was with me for that and still hates me for it, I think.  This past weekend I did a total of 18 miles (which included my regular walk downtown).  Being in the woods has been exhilarating, and while it will never replace being close to the ocean, I find so much joy in the nature I’ve been able to experience there.  Rob has come with me on a few trails, and a couple of friends have joined as well, but the times when I’m alone with my thoughts and the birds, and trees, and surrounded by peaceful green is the time when my soul has come out of its funk and my heart has been refreshed.

 Foot bridge at Fall Creek Falls
 Climbers Loop at Foster Falls
 Mossy Ridge at Percy Warner
 Mashomack Preserve on Shelter Island
 Couchville Lake
 Garnier Ridge at Radnor Lake

Those trails we walked on many years ago in Vermont set something in motion that I hope will continue for as long as my body is able.  I want to do a backpacking trip at some point, tackle the Long Trail in Vermont, and section hike parts of the AT.  Rob and I went to REI, bought actual serious backpacks, and are slowly getting our gear up to snuff to be able to do some short trips.  Who knows what will come of it, but for now, we walk on in search of the next beautiful moment…

Filed Under: Hiking, Tennessee, Travel Tagged With: Fiery Gizzard, hiking, RMNP, Sounds of the Trail, Travel

Hiking The Fiery Gizzard And Surviving…Barely.

October 28, 2014 by Leah Leave a Comment

This past weekend, we had a camping adventure with some friends.  We went up to Tracy City, TN and stayed at the CCC campground right next to the Fiery Gizzard Trail.  On Saturday we hiked 11 miles round trip to Raven Point on a trail that has a difficulty rating of 8 out of 10 and is one of the top 25 trails in the US.  Needless to say, we brought a lot of Advil.  Everything hurts, but we had an awesome time and all of us left excited about what our next trip might be…with the caveat that the trail be half as long.

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We met Brandon and Shelly up at the CCC campground on Friday night to set up camp with the tents.  We brought plenty of food to cook on the fire.  Thank goodness for the fire!  It was a crazy 45 degrees on Friday night, and while this seems like a piddly, warm temp for all you experienced hikers out there, this was freaking freezing for someone like me who is cold when it’s 80 degrees outside.  I found a 20 degree rated, down Marmot sleeping bag on Sierra Trading Post when they were having a big sale.  Thankfully, the only thing freezing that night was my nose.

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The crew: Brandon, Shelly, Rob, Jessie, Seth, and our mascot, Ben, who was a brave little doggie trooper.

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We went up to Raven Point which was .4 miles in the opposite direction from the campsite.  Obviously anyone who hikes to Foster Falls has a death wish or hates themselves a whole lot.  You may think it’s silly that they have to specify not to jump from the falls, but there was a rescue the day we hiked for a guy who had gotten too close to the edge of a waterfall and fallen 30 feet.  Hopefully he ended up being ok.

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When you first start on the trail you think, “Oh this is so pretty and not hard at all…”  You say this internally, all smug and confident, and you smile for pictures in front of pretty waterfalls…

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Even Ben is like, “I’ve got this, you guys.  You humans have nothing on me…”

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Along the main trail, there are some offshoots where you can see the occasional overlook or waterfall.  One of our first diversions was Sycamore falls, worth the extra 10 minutes for sure.

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You come to a point in the trail where you have to make a decision that will affect the rest of your day, along with the shape your muscles will be in for the next few days.  The question was: take the hard trail first and the easy trail back? Or, take the easy trail up and tackle the hard part on the return?  We made the right choice, we took the hard way up to Raven Point, enabling us to book it back on the Dog Hole Trail and eventually to our campsite before it got dark in the woods.  I cannot imagine the predicament we would have been in had we been going downhill across rocky trails as the light was fading.

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The sights along the way are stunningly gorgeous.  We hiked next to a river for much of the way, through forest green and colored, carpeted with mosses, ferns, and freshly fallen autumn colors.  The smell was damp moss, rotting leaves, foaming currents, clear and crisp.

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If you are thinking about bringing your dog on this adventure, think carefully.  We had no idea what to expect as to the actual difficulty, but Ben needed to be carried in places where the boulders and rocks were impassible for him.  Thankfully, he made it out safely and was such a little trooper.  He had a couple of bloody paw pads, but all in all, he’s in good shape and was able to handle the hike surprisingly well.

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Almost there!  Following the very steep ascent, we felt like we were going to die.  You don’t just get to the top and suddenly see the Point (pun intended).  No.  You have to hike another .4 miles in, which at this stage just makes you want to scream nasty, mean things at the people who created this bloody mess of a trail.  But press on we did.

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Aaaaaahhhhh, a view for miles.  Past peak, but still lovely.  The point was breezy, warm, and sunny with lots of places for us to sit and say thankful prayers for reaching the top.  There were no heart attacks or broken bones.

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It’s a little hard to describe how we all felt when we reached the Point, but Ben captures it perfectly in this picture.  He had a lovely snooze while we all refueled with food and water, taking it all in.

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The flora and fauna on the way back down was just as beautiful as when we were heading up.  The mosses and fungi we passed were so gorgeous, they deserve a blog of their own.

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Ok, so you’ve heard about the trail, but lets get to the practical side of things.  What do you need to do this safely?  The group sat around the fire after surviving this trail and talked about things we wish we had known before tackling this adventure.  The result was the following list:

  • Hiking boots – Please don’t wear sneakers to hike this trail.  Hiking boots are ugly, let’s be honest.  I looked all over the freaking city to find a pair that were both comfortable and not as ugly, but I’m beyond thankful that I had them.  I bought the J-41 Srina, made by Jeep.  They had fantastic tread so I could handle the rocks easily, but they also offered some ankle support, which is crucial on this trail.  These are not heavy duty boots.  They are great for day hikes, but I’m not sure how they’d hold up over the long term on a backpacking trip.  They are more flexible than heavier hiking boots like Keens, and they were much more comfortable than most of the ones I’d tried on.  I didn’t have any blisters or issues with these shoes and I might even buy another pair to keep as a backup.

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  • Duct tape and superglue –  These are listed in lieu of bringing an extra pair of hiking boots.  We dubbed this trail the “Sole Taker” because the possibility of you actually losing your sole on this trip is pretty high.  Due to the ankle bending, rock strewn, boulder laden trails, you need some serious shoes to tackle the Gizzard.  We passed one woman halfway in who had lost the soles off both of her shoes.  Later on in the day, the same thing happened to Jessie with her Asolo hiking boots that had only been worn a few times.  After we finished the trail, a ranger told us that was actually quite common.  Be prepared, people!!!
  • Moleskin – If you are prone to blisters, or wearing hiking boots you don’t wear too often or haven’t fully broken in, this is a must.
  • Walking stick or pole – This is purely based on personal preference.  I think I would have had balance issues and felt encumbered by a walking stick, but for Shelly, they were lifesavers and helped her navigate some of the rockiest portions of the trail.  Rob also felt like it was useful when going uphill.
  • High protein food for energy – We brought cut peppers, hummus, and high protein granola bars with us.  These got us through the day and we didn’t feel like we were starving.  They gave us the energy we needed to keep going.  Others in the group had jerky, salami, cheese, etc.  Basically, bring food that is fuel.  Every time we stopped to eat, we felt like we had renewed energy.
  • Water – Obviously, this is a must.  If you don’t want to bring 4 bottles of heavy water, bring a camping water filter.  There is a gorgeous river that runs along the Fiery Gizzard trail which could be a good water supply with the proper filtering equipment.  Otherwise, pack plenty of water, it is essential.
  • Camera – I have a small Canon Powershot Elph that I love bringing on trips like this.  Phone cameras are great, but batteries should be conserved in case of emergency.
  • PStyle – For women who camp, this is a must!!! This little plastic contraption enables you to pee while standing.  I was beyond thankful that I’d spent the money and brought this silly thing along.  It was totally worth having and made what could have been an awkward situation pretty easy.  Otherwise you could “monkey pole” where you hold onto a sapling, lean back and hope you don’t pee all over yourself.  You can find one here.  You’re welcome.
  • Moisture wicking everything – Before we left on this trip I bought a North Face base layer at TJ Maxx that was moisture wicking.  Even though there were parts of the day when I was really sweating, my shirt never felt soaked and I stayed quite comfortable.  I also wore wool socks, Smartwool is best (I’ve also seen these at TJ Maxx), and my feet weren’t swampy or damp.  If we were doing this in summer, I’d buy moisture wicking t-shirts or tank tops.  The right clothing makes a world of difference in comfort level when you’re sweating your way up a trail.
  • Backpack – If you’re planning to do the entire loop in a day and not camping up a Raven’s Point, a regular old backpack works.  Make sure there are plenty of pockets and straps to carry what you need.  If you can find one that has chest and waist straps, that might help eliminate some of the weight on the shoulders.
  • Ace bandage – Although it’s never nice to think of being hurt on a trail, this is one of those things that is lightweight and easy to throw in a bag.  If you end up needing it, you will thank your lucky stars that you have it.  This trail is brutal on the knees, ankles, and hips.  On the way down, there is one hill that is a knee jerker for sure and there are countless sections of the trail where you walk on nothing but rocks.  Bring first aid in case something unplanned happens.
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Gear resources that won’t break the bank:
Steep and Cheap – a flash sale website for outdoor gear.  We got two North Face packs that retail for $169 for $59.99 each.  Total steal!
Back Country – all kinds of gear with the occasional sale and often cheaper prices than REI, etc.
Sierra Trading Post – same as the above.
TJ Maxx – head to the store and check the active section.  They had North Face base layers, Columbia fleece, Smartwool socks, and Avalanche cold gear when I went.  I got everything I needed for this trip in terms of clothes at great discount prices.

Filed Under: Hiking, Tennessee Tagged With: Asolo, Back Country, Fiery Gizzard, hiking, J-41 Srina, North Face, PStyle, Raven Point, Sierra Trading Post, Steep and Cheap, Tennessee, TJ Maxx, Travel, trees

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